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N°12 · Innovation & Craftsmanship

Sunscreen and coral: what has changed since the Hawaii ban

Five years after Hawaii's ban, the « reef safe » sunscreen market is exploding. Spoiler: real reef safe is a UV-protective swimsuit.

On 1 January 2021, Hawaii banned the sale of sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate. Five years later, Thailand, Palau, the Virgin Islands, Aruba, Bonaire and Mexico have followed. The global market for « reef safe » creams has jumped from 200 million to nearly 2 billion dollars. And yet, the reefs keep bleaching.

What the studies actually showed

The seminal study is the one by Craig Downs, published in Archives of Environmental Contamination in 2015. It shows that oxybenzone, even at very low concentrations (62 parts per trillion), causes three effects on juvenile corals:

  • Accelerated bleaching — the coral expels its symbiotic algae and dies within a few weeks.
  • Skeletal deformation — growing corals develop in a chaotic way.
  • DNA lesions — reducing the colonies' ability to reproduce.

Octinoxate, benzophenone-1, octocrylene and 4-MBC have since been singled out for comparable effects. 14,000 tons of sunscreen are released into the world's reefs every year, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

The problem is not limited to tourists. Cream also goes down the drain when you get home, and from there, to the sea.

Why « reef safe » is not enough

This is the point on which the industry has communicated the least: there is no official standard for the « reef safe » label. Any brand can stamp it on. Some « reef safe » creams still contain close chemical relatives (avobenzone, homosalate) whose long-term effects on reefs have not been measured.

Mineral creams (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) are far less aggressive on coral. But in nanoparticle formulations — the most common on the market — they can still accumulate in sediments and disturb phytoplankton. Particle size is rarely shown on the label.

The second problem: microplastics

Beyond the UV filters themselves, sunscreens contain plastic excipients — microbeads, polymers, silicones — which take between 50 and 500 years to break down. These residues end up in the stomachs of fish, turtles and, eventually, on our plates.

14,000 tons of sunscreen + 8 million tons of plastic: every year, the oceans receive the equivalent of one garbage truck per second.

The solution no one talks about: wear a garment

Let us look at the numbers coldly. An adult who spends a week at the beach uses on average 400 g of sunscreen. A long-sleeve UPF 80 rashguard covers 60% of the body's surface. Wearing it cuts:

  • cream consumption by 60 to 70%;
  • chemical-filter release into the water with each swim, in the same proportion;
  • time spent applying and reapplying cream, freeing up time for what matters.

This is exactly the calculation snorkeling and diving operators have been making since 2019 in the Maldives, in Belize and on the Great Barrier Reef. They now provide their clients with UPF swimsuits and ban entry into the water with non-mineral cream. The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority explicitly recommends « a full-length UPF rash shirt and leggings over sunscreen ».

A measurable, verifiable impact

A UVEA UPF 80 t-shirt lasts at least 3 seasons in heavy use. Over 3 years, it avoids the application of about 12 kg of sunscreen — the equivalent of 40 tubes thrown out. Above all, it avoids 12 kg of chemical residue in the water.

UVEA chose, back in 2019, to make its UV-protective fabrics from recycled polyester, certified GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and OEKO-TEX Standard 100. The yarn is obtained from PET bottles collected in Europe. Manufacturing takes place in Roubaix (design and patternmaking), Italy (weaving) and Bulgaria (assembly), totaling 1,527 km of supply chain — compared with the 15,000 km average for a swimsuit produced in Asia.

What you can do starting now

Simple gestures, in order of impact:

  1. Favor UV-protective clothing to cover torso, back, shoulders, arms and thighs — the 60% of the body most exposed when swimming.
  2. Keep a non-nano mineral cream (look for « no nanoparticles », « non-nano zinc oxide ») for the face, hands and feet.
  3. Rinse off after the water to limit cream-to-water transfer.
  4. Avoid swimming in the 30 minutes after applying: letting the cream sink in reduces washoff.
  5. Flag it to the hotel or operator if the creams provided contain oxybenzone. Consumer pressure moved Hawaii in 2 years.

Reef safe is not a word on a label. It is a hierarchy: garment first, mineral cream second, clear water always. The UVEA men's rashguard collection and beach accessories are designed for this new grammar of travel.

Five years after Hawaii, the real question is no longer « is my cream reef safe? » but « am I still putting cream where a garment would do? ».

Discover men's UV-protective rashguards →